These Hair Pins Are the Secret to Effortlessly Chic Updos (2024)

Over the course of the pandemic, I’ve honed my beauty routine so that I can channel minimal effort into maximal results for looking half-decent during Zoom meetings. On the hair front, tending to my thick mane of curls, I’ve found that nothing yields more satisfying—and endless—possibilities than tossing my hair up with large U-shaped hair pins. While I’d collected a few over the years as part of my ever-growing hair accessories collection, it took a fresh, layered cut and some extra time for trial and error in quarantine to realize that the classic French pins aren’t as intimidating to work with as they seem. In fact, they’re easy—like I-can’t-believe-you-were-right-there-all-along easy—to use once you get the hang of it. And really, truly, it can’t be emphasized enough: They’re a more fruitful alternative to tying hair back in a ponytail or taut bun in more ways than one.

“The simplicity is the absolute best!” says Mara Roszak, who crafts wispy updos for the likes of Emma Stone, Zoe Saldana, and Lily Collins. “I find if secured properly, U-shaped pins hold the hair so incredibly well with hardly any effort. You’re also able to get more volume and movement in your style with a U-pin than a pony, where you are more limited. The styles look so chic!” On top of decidedly cooler results, they’re a healthier option for your hair as elastics can pull on lengths, which can cause breakage and put stress on the hairline. Twisting hair up with a U-pin can also be rewarding for adding volume and texture once you take it down, whether you’re setting damp hair or amplifying a dry style. “I always prefer to twist up my blowouts to give them a little bit of a lived-in, not-too-perfect texture,” says Roszak, adding that using a hair pin won’t leave a tight crease in the hair like an elastic might.

While offering practical ease, U-pins can also be the catalyst for more idiosyncratic styles, which can run the gamut from classically Gallic to ’70s Victoriana to contemporary avant-garde. The kind of U-shaped pin you choose may dictate your approach. Recently, upon visiting designer Judi Rosen’s shop (home of the cult-favorite denim) in New York City’s Nolita neighborhood, I happened upon an assortment of bold and bright U-shaped pins from NYC brand Mae Mae, designed by jewelry-maker Chloe Bernbach. With their graphic wiggled shape and unique bright colors and textures (from glassy neon green to glittery gold to pearlescent blue) they looked like they belonged in the MoMA Design Store. “I wanted them to be luxurious, but also punk,” explains Bernbach of conceiving a modern, edgy interpretation of the antique hair pins she’d find at flea markets. “The pins can show a fantastic pop of color or a slightly more subtle sparkle depending on your mood.”

But just as they are visually delightful, they are thick and sturdy, designed with wavy lines to help lock styles into place, and come in a variety of sizes to suit all hair types. “I wanted them to be versatile, so you could simply sweep up your hair into an effortless French twist or bun, or you can use multiple pins to make your hair into a more sculptural work of art,” explains Bernbach. If your style skews a bit minimalist, consider traditional monochrome or tortoise shell classics from brands like Paris Mode or France Luxe, or, for just a hint of sparkle, one of illustrator Jenny Walton’s soft pastel offerings with delicate crystal embellishment.

There are also sleek metallic designs, as demonstrated by the new collaboration between Westman Atelier and Deborah Pagani, which finds Pagani's sought-after U-shaped pin reimagined with the Westman Atelier open heart logo. The idea to join forces came organically after founder Gucci Westman discovered Pagani's Hair Objet pins during the stay-at-home period of the early pandemic and quickly became obsessed. “They are just as easy to use as an elastic, but they transform a quick bun or updo into an effortlessly polished look," says Westman of their perennial appeal. “Plus, they’re just reallybeautiful objects—they’re like jewelryfor your hair!” An instant hit among the Vogue beauty team, the sculptural heart bauble, which I'm wearing as I type this, supplies a dose of joy to the laziest of laissez-faire styles.

Of course, once you find your choice U-shaped pin, you want to have a sense of what to do with it. The biggest general rule: “Make sure to twist the hair a little tighter than the desired result, knowing it will loosen slightly once secured,” instructs Roszak. For maximum security, she recommends tucking the ends into/under the twist or bun, then hooking the pin straight into the bun, then angling the back of the pin flush with the head in a “scooping motion” and pushing all the way through.

Another way to approach it is by tying your hair into a ponytail first, then twisting your hair and locking it in with your pin. To add softness and layers to your look, consider playing with your wisps. “Usually, I gently pull out two front pieces along the part, one of which I usually tuck behind the ear, then the two ‘side burn’ pieces in front of the ear, along the hairline. If you have bangs, allow for those to be left loose with one or two longer pieces on either side of the bangs to fall out.” The trick is not to pull out too much and make it look too intentional, says Roszak. A pro hack this editor leans on: Use your pinky fingers to pull out a few, whisper-light tendrils.

Whether you’re looking to up your hair game, or have an excess of lengths that you don’t know what to do with, trust in the powers of a U-shaped pin. “My hair is so long and a bit unruly after a year without a cut,” admits Bernbach. “Hair pins inspire me to get creative with my hair while adding color and joy.” Moreover, they can serve as a splash of polish or whimsy. As Bernback puts it, “When most of your meetings and socializing is on a screen, and you might be wearing PJs, having a super-chic hair accessory helps.”

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